Inspired by the Legacy of McQueen
Heritage and artisanal skill are the foundation of any luxury fashion house, although their importance is something frequently overlooked in favour of shock and spectacle. Sarah Burton proved that this does not have to be true, as she presented the Alexander McQueen collection at Paris Fashion Week this month. McQueen has been renowned for pulling us into the deep dark fetishism of its collections for years, whilst Sarah Burton is credited as the light seeping through this darkness, moving the house of McQueen forward whilst celebrating its roots. This season an ultra-romantic version of the McQueen woman was clearly on show.
Burton took inspiration from the Huguenot settlers that arrived in London’s Spitalfields in the late 17th Century, bringing with them beautiful artisanal crafts such as weaving and lace making, which have ultimately made British Haute Couture what it is today. These crafts were shown from start to finish, bringing with them the romantic notion of skills passed down through generations. From the long, ruffled dresses in nude tones to the layers of lace showing hints of flesh, the collection told a poetic story of heritage, often forgotten by modern luxury fashion houses.
Burton did retain fragments of the razor-sharp tailoring we associate with McQueen, layering military frock coats with tough silver chain harnesses. References to complex architectural structures juxtaposed against elegant Victorian style lace panels, demonstrated that the McQueen vision is still strong.
Creative Designer Nichole de Carle also uses her vibrant Huguenot heritage as a strong point of inspiration, bringing the values of quality and skill into each piece she creates. The balance of masculine with feminine, the use of sharp angles framing panels of lace, is what the Nichole de Carle London label has become synonymous with. Combining this unique vision with the craftsmanship she nurtured working at Alexander McQueen and within her own business, she has refined her signature style that will continue to evolve and drive her collections forwards.